One Kensington: Go for the food, not the décor by Bruce Palling

 So when I am invited to try a new Italian (or Indian) restaurant, I usually think of better ways to spend my time, as so often, they are an anti-climax. With rare exceptions, such as Osteria Francescana in Modena, I prefer Italian cuisine to be classic as there is so much that can go wrong when it is modernised or frenchified. One Kensington was not on my radar until I was told that the  consulting chef was Massimiliano Blasone, formerly from Apsleys at the temporarily closed Lanesborough Hotel. This is one of those places, like Theo Randall’s, that is overlooked because it is tucked away inside an hotel. I am so out of touch that I didn’t realise Massimiliano was in fact a departee a couple of years ago and had spent subsequent time opening Cassis in Brompton Road, a fairly unmemorable place. Before that though, he served his dues in Rome with La Pergola.

Anyway, why not give it a try? I last came to this pimped up old bank building five years ago when it was undergoing yet another reincarnation. It is a difficult site, at the beginning of Kensington High St before it dissolves into an ill-assorted jumble of buildings in the direction of the Albert Hall. It is very tricky to get a grasp on the overall design as it is trifurcated into a raised platform at the entrance then two portions divided by a central reservation which has four birdcages plonked on top to give the aura of its banking past. One of the most discordant objects is a large mesh container adjacent to the bar which is a miniature lock up for the wine. It might also make aesthetic sense to remove the ghastly air-conditioning units plonked on the walls too. The panelling too, is fairly grim – perhaps there is some sort of preservation order on it as why else would you not try to adorn it with some form of art?

Note the bizarre bird cages in the middle of the room

The pastel coloured leatherette chairs don’t exactly do it for me either – my wife made an astute observation – “Not exactly the best place to come for a first date, is it?” The overall effect was of a hastily arranged makeover in a cavernous space.

Which is really quite a pity as the food on the plate was actually above and beyond what I had expected. The menu was slightly too pared-back to completely impress me as there didn’t seem to be enough choice if you decided to come more than once or twice.

I started with Pea Soup with lobster and quinoa, which arrived as a line of lobster medallions along the plate, not unlike the bar stretching down the middle of the old bank.

The pea soup was then poured on either side as if it were prepared in two ways. There was a fair element of skill in the execution as the soup itself was not too cloying and was more than the sum of its parts when eaten with the lobster – altogether an interesting dish.

My wife went for the loin of venison with artichokes and adorned with mustard seeds, which was about the size you would expect for a main course. This was cooked superbly, though the temperature was slightly puzzling – it could have been meant to be tepid or it simply could have been that the plate was too cold.

The rump of Scottish lamb was also well executed with a pleasurable sweetness provided by the Taggiasca Olives and caponata. One odd thing though was how difficult it was to tell these two dishes apart as the cut of the meat was identical - someone should take look at the plating. Both this and the venison performed well against the Barolo Arpatin 09, which was excellent, though rather cheekily priced at £78.75 (retail £25).

The Mediterranean salt crust Sea Bass was again, superbly cooked, though it might have benefited from being served on a hot plate. The ratatouille was of the modern variety – not mushy at all but fresh and almost deconstructed.

The cheese was a let down – three indifferent portions all a touch cold and served with fruit infused rye bread. It would have been better to provide at least one hard cheese rather than two soft ones. Also, I wish all restaurants could offer a simple baguette option for those who hate candied fruit concoctions to have with cheese.

The lemon tart was a success, which came with a caramelised top and the coffee was also worth drinking. So in conclusion – the food was actually better than the environment would suggest. The style is definitely contemporary but the flavours were in balance and the cooking was certainly good enough to return. It would cost a huge amount to really sort out the décor, so it won't happen. Just try to keep your head down and focus on the plates.

Cost: Starters £10 plus, main courses £20 dinner for two with wine £120

Contact: www.one-kensington.com

1 Kensington High St London W8 5NP

Tel: +44 20 7795 6533

info@one-kensington.com