Massimo Bottura and Osteria Francescana in Modena By Bruce Palling
Massimo's spin-painting veal dish - or is it a Damien Hirst?Massimo Bottura, Italy’s most famous chef, is accustomed to controversy. His reinterpretation of Italian classics has won his worldwide fame...
View ArticleAll you should know about olives and olive oil: Review of Virgin Territory by...
Nancy Jenkins knows her olives - she has been harvesting her own for 40 years or so and frequently lectures on the subject of olive oil. A couple of years back, I attended a seminar held at Villa...
View ArticleMoving Restaurants - Redzepi in Tokyo, Blumenthal in Melbourne by Bruce Palling
Fat Duck's Sound of the Sea - does it require extra volume in a Melbourne casino?In 1969, Maxim’s, then arguably the most famous restaurant in Paris, became the first haute-cuisine establishment to...
View ArticleGoing vegetarian? No - just going green - the rise of vegetables in haute...
Vegetables for sale at the Paul Bocuse market, LyonVegetarianism received an unexpected boost recently with media accounts about how Alain Ducasse, the most famous haute cuisine chef on the planet, was...
View ArticleThe Modern British Cuisine Movement: an interview with Rowley Leigh, founder...
The wines we consumed during the interview at Hereford Road Restaurant"Very easy to please, but very hard to impress"A remark by a friend of Rowley's in Hong KongRowley Leigh is the most active and...
View ArticleGreen (Haute) Cuisine? My profile and interview with Alain Ducasse by Bruce...
Tasting cheese with Ducasse in London Making an appointment to see Alain Ducasse, 58, the world's most influential chef, requires some patience, and luck. His hard-working executive assistant in Monaco...
View ArticleUltraviolet: Paul Pairet's Shanghai spectacular by Bruce Palling
The picnic course at UltravioletChina can boast of having the oldest continuous culinary tradition on earth. More than two and a half thousand years ago, the philosopher Confucius laid down very...
View ArticleWhy do we eat - no, not the hunger number - the philosophical thing - do we...
Are you a work of art or just a plate of fish with some herbs? Le Petit Nice, Marseilles Nearly two centuries on from Brillat-Savarin’s Physiology of Taste, there are a host of new issues regarding...
View ArticleHand and Flowers: Tom Kerridge and the rise of the Gastropub by Bruce Palling
Tom KerridgeNearly 70 years ago, George Orwell described the perfect imaginary British pub. He called it The Moon Under Water and declared there were 10 ideal qualities required, ranging from barmaids...
View ArticleChop Chop: So you want to be a chef? - read Simon Wroe's debut novel first by...
Certain careers in Britain seem to personify different eras – in the Sixties, every Bright Young Thing wanted to be a television presenter or an investigative journalist while until recently, banking...
View ArticleMy review of A Work in Progress – journal, recipes and snapshots by René...
Noma, 20111Rene Redzepi and Noma were voted back as number one restaurant last night (April 28) at the Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurant awards at the Guildhall in London. It is an excellent...
View ArticleOne Kensington: Go for the food, not the décor by Bruce Palling
The Barolo was fine except it was 14%There are so many parallels between India and Italy, I sometimes think they are merely Eastern and Western hemispheres of the same place. Both are fractious,...
View ArticleEvery Picture tells a story - but every dish too? by Bruce Palling
It all started with that bloody apple...“I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the Madeleine. No sooner had the warm liquid, and the crumbs with it, touched my...
View ArticleMichelin vs. The World's 50 Best – Star Wars by Bruce Palling
"Everybody believed in the Guide Michelin. Here conversation went crescendo: where one ate and what one ate and the way it was cooked and where one might eat next Sunday; poetry welled up in every...
View ArticleAdrian Zecha and Amanresorts - back in control again, but what next? by Bruce...
Amanpuri -where it all began in 1988It was F Scott Fitzgerald who said about the very rich – “They are different from you and me.” The way they take their holidays can also be quite special. The level...
View ArticleWhen Street Food goes indoors - Pitt Cue, Bone Daddies, Rita's and Frenchie...
Greg Marchand inside Frenchie to Go How does a trend go mainstream? There are numerous stories of an idiosyncratically dressed teenager being spotted in a market or nightclub, suddenly becoming the new...
View ArticleIs there anything natural about raw wine? by Bruce Palling
Great wines in the window of a Neapolitan wine shop When I fled from my country town in Australia for the “Big Smoke” (the contemporary description for Melbourne) I was given some friendly advice by a...
View ArticleWhen it comes to Black Truffles, will we soon have to learn how to pronounce...
Brett Graham's version of Chicken in Half Mourning with Manjimup Truffles stuffed under and over its skinWhere do the world’s best truffles come from? For the past century or more, the stock response...
View ArticleArjun Waney: the most successful restaurant creator/investor in Britain? by...
Arjun Waney in The Arts Club, MayfairFor some time now, London has been the hottest destination for international restaurateurs to launch new ventures – New Yorker André Balazs and his Chiltern Fire...
View ArticleRestaurant reservation? I'll put you on hold: Are tickets the answer? by...
Dinner by Heston - can I buy a ticket please?Is there any other simple transaction that has so many opportunities for deception as making a restaurant reservation? In the case of fashionable places,...
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