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Why do we eat - no, not the hunger number - the philosophical thing - do we...
Are you a work of art or just a plate of fish with some herbs? Le Petit Nice, Marseilles Nearly two centuries on from Brillat-Savarin’s Physiology of Taste, there are a host of new issues regarding...
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Hand and Flowers: Tom Kerridge and the rise of the Gastropub by Bruce Palling
Tom KerridgeNearly 70 years ago, George Orwell described the perfect imaginary British pub. He called it The Moon Under Water and declared there were 10 ideal qualities required, ranging from barmaids...
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Chop Chop: So you want to be a chef? - read Simon Wroe's debut novel first by...
Certain careers in Britain seem to personify different eras – in the Sixties, every Bright Young Thing wanted to be a television presenter or an investigative journalist while until recently, banking...
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My review of A Work in Progress – journal, recipes and snapshots by René...
Noma, 20111Rene Redzepi and Noma were voted back as number one restaurant last night (April 28) at the Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurant awards at the Guildhall in London. It is an excellent...
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One Kensington: Go for the food, not the décor by Bruce Palling
The Barolo was fine except it was 14%There are so many parallels between India and Italy, I sometimes think they are merely Eastern and Western hemispheres of the same place. Both are fractious,...
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Every Picture tells a story - but every dish too? by Bruce Palling
It all started with that bloody apple...“I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the Madeleine. No sooner had the warm liquid, and the crumbs with it, touched my...
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Michelin vs. The World's 50 Best – Star Wars by Bruce Palling
50 Best in Guildhall Can there ever be such a thing as the world’s best restaurant? warehouse by the seaAn impossibility, say the sceptics – how can you compare an establishment in a centuries old...
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What's happening with Adrian Zecha and Amanresorts - will the Amanjunkies...
Amanpuri -where it all began in 1988It was F Scott Fitzgerald who said about the very rich – “They are different from you and me.” The way they take their holidays can also be quite special. The level...
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When Street Food goes indoors - Pitt Cue, Bone Daddies, Rita's and Frenchie...
Greg Marchand inside Frenchie to Go How does a trend go mainstream? There are numerous stories of an idiosyncratically dressed teenager being spotted in a market or nightclub, suddenly becoming the new...
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Is there anything natural about raw wine? by Bruce Palling
Great wines in the window of a Neapolitan wine shop When I fled from my country town in Australia for the “Big Smoke” (the contemporary description for Melbourne) I was given some friendly advice by a...
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When it comes to Black Truffles, will we soon have to learn how to pronounce...
Brett Graham's version of Chicken in Half Mourning with Manjimup Truffles stuffed under and over its skinWhere do the world’s best truffles come from? For the past century or more, the stock response...
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Arjun Waney: the most successful restaurant creator/investor in Britain? by...
Arjun Waney in The Arts Club, MayfairFor some time now, London has been the hottest destination for international restaurateurs to launch new ventures – New Yorker André Balazs and his Chiltern Fire...
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Restaurant reservation? I'll put you on hold: Are tickets the answer? by...
Dinner by Heston - can I buy a ticket please?Is there any other simple transaction that has so many opportunities for deception as making a restaurant reservation? In the case of fashionable places,...
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Jeremiah Tower's MAD4 speech in Copenhagen: "Benchmarks, not the BMW"
Jeremiah outside Stars on his BMW circa1988Jeremiah Tower, now in his early Seventies, is currently in the midst of a well-earned revival. He was the chef most commonly associated with the birth of...
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Are we here for the music or is it the food? The growth of the Wilderness...
Mark Hix at the Wilderness Festival There has always been an issue when it comes to music festivals and food. Woodstock, which kicked off the modern era of rock festivals in 1969, had a big problem...
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The tyranny of the tasting menu By Bruce Palling
Ferran, the master of the 50 course tasting menu (all pix by Bruce Palling) What has been the biggest change in fine dining in recent years? Before you try to guess, let me narrow down the options. It...
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When Street Food goes indoors - Pitt Cue, Bone Daddies, Rita's and Frenchie...
Greg Marchand inside Frenchie to Go How does a trend go mainstream? There are numerous stories of an idiosyncratically dressed teenager being spotted in a market or nightclub, suddenly becoming the new...
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Star Wars: the Indian Food Scene in London by Bruce Palling
Shamil Thakrar of Dishoom Behind the revamped Kings Cross and St Pancras Stations, there is a huge development around Granary Square, which was once the transit point for rail goods before they went on...
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Ultraviolet: Paul Pairet's Shanghai spectacular by Bruce Palling
The picnic course at UltravioletChina can boast of having the oldest continuous culinary tradition on earth. More than two and a half thousand years ago, the philosopher Confucius laid down very...
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A brief tour through eastern Germany with a meal at Sven Elverfeld’s Aqua and...
Dresden - the portion that escaped the worst of the senseless Allied firebombing in 1945For a variety of reasons, we decided to explore eastern Germany in the summer, starting in Berlin and then...
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