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Jeremiah Tower's MAD4 speech in Copenhagen: "Benchmarks, not the BMW"
Jeremiah outside Stars on his BMW circa1988Jeremiah Tower, now in his early Seventies, is currently in the midst of a well-earned revival. He was the chef most commonly associated with the birth of...
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Are we here for the music or is it the food? The growth of the Wilderness...
Mark Hix at the Wilderness Festival There has always been an issue when it comes to music festivals and food. Woodstock, which kicked off the modern era of rock festivals in 1969, had a big problem...
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The tyranny of the tasting menu By Bruce Palling
Ferran, the master of the 50 course tasting menu (all pix by Bruce Palling) What has been the biggest change in fine dining in recent years? Before you try to guess, let me narrow down the options. It...
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Star Wars: the Indian Food Scene in London by Bruce Palling
Shamil Thakrar of Dishoom Behind the revamped Kings Cross and St Pancras Stations, there is a huge development around Granary Square, which was once the transit point for rail goods before they went on...
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Haute Cuisine comes to North Africa: Yannick Alléno in Marrakech
Yannick's Moroccan dishesBy Bruce PallingMorocco has always been a magnet for affluent travellers - after all, it is the closest exotic destination to Europe, which also has serious luxe accommodation....
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Paradise on a plate: Robin Gill's latest venture - Paradise Garage
Rabbit Pieby Bruce PallingRobin Gill made his mark a couple of years ago when he opened the Dairy in Clapham, south London. Since then, he has expanded in the neighbourhood by launching the Manor. Now...
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Paris goes veggie: L'Arpege, Plaza-Athenee, David Toutain
Vegetables preserved at Le Louis Quinze, Monaco - not just in ParisAdd captionby Bruce PallingAlain Passard started focussing on vegetables more than a decade ago - it has taken a while for this trend...
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Bonhams Restaurant: eating off historic plates by Bruce Palling
Plates fit for a DukeWhat happens when you eat contemporary food on a near intact eighteenth century porcelain service? I had the opportunity to discover the consequences when I was invited to a small...
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On the joys of Companions (Food and Wine) By Bruce Palling
Eating and drinking should not be a solitary affair - the pleasure quotient is far higher when both are shared. Apart from that, when you have company, there are more options for opening different...
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Nilsson's Nordic Magnus : my cookbook of the year by Bruce Palling
What is the point of cookery books? Today, the essential ingredient appears to be a seductive female on the cover or equally beautiful illustrations of dishes low in calories or high in wonderful...
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The death of Benoît Violier Predictably, the media blame it on the stress – but that’s too simplistic by Bruce PallingBenoit Violier with his first prize at the La Liste celebrations in Paris last...
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Hong Kong - BYO Heaven by Bruce Palling
The wine list at Amuse-Bouche - impressive but wait until you see what the punters bring in their brown paper bagsWhere in the world are most of the rarest and greatest bottles of wine drunk? A fusty...
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Positano, Marina del Cantone and memories of Rome: Dal Bolognese, La Sponda...
Positano was not the first Italian destination to make a lasting impact on me, mainly because my initial experience of Italy was Rome rather than the Amalfi Coast. I stopped off in the Eternal City...
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Burgundy vs. the Rest By Bruce Palling
DRC Tasting at Corney and BarrowWhat is the most divisive issue amongst wine lovers? Well, it's not red vs. white, "natural" vs. "normal" or even old vs. new world. No ... its whether you prefer...
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Le Cinq - a memorable meal (for all the right reasons) by Bruce Palling
Recently, a London journalist went to Paris and declared his dinner at Le Cinq - all 82 minutes of it - the worst meal he had experienced in nearly two decades. Another problem seemed to be that it was...
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Yannick Alleno: My Perfect (dining) Day
Yannick relaxing in Marrakech, where he has two fine dining restaurants in the Royal MansourYannick Alleno has a lot to be pleased with - since earlier this year, he is the only chef to run two three...
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What was that in my Bouillabaisse? by Bruce Palling
A selection of the individually cooked ingredients of Gerald Passedat's incomparable bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse is the most famous Provencal dish but there is no defined way to prepare it - my attempt...
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Barcelona goes back to its culinary roots by Bruce Palling
For about two decades, Catalan cuisine was defined by the surreal provocations of the cooks at elBulli, a seaside restaurant near the moderately charming town of Roses. With elBulli as their base,...
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A motor tour from Calais to La Turbie: in search of authentic French cuisine...
A perfect lamb chop at Pic in ValenceHow French is French cuisine? It has had an unrivalled position for centuries but it has recently been going through something of an identity crisis. Chefs from...
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“We don’t do it for business – it is because we are curious" Bros - the...
Bros founders - Floriano Pellegrino (l), Giovanni (c) and Isabella Poti (r)The province of Puglia has been the focus of considerable attention as the coolest new Italian destination still unspoilt by...
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